Xunantunich (pronounced shoo-nan-too - nich, we think!)

Our first Mayan site. Last Mon was a day off, so we decided to go see some sights. First thoughts were the mountain pine ridge nature reserve. But 10 miles west you turn off the paved western highway and ... well, the roads weren't good. No, not at all good.

After about half an hour, the mileometer said we'd done about two miles of the 18 miles to the reserve (that's about 5mph.) So we turned back. Cowards really.

People we spoke to on Wednesday said: "oh yes, not a good road that. Typically takes a couple of hours with a 4x4." That means they must drive at a spinejuddering 10mph or even more!

Must be braver, next time.

So instead we went to Xunantunich. Head west thro St Ignacio towards the Guatamala border; when you reach the ferry (hand cranked no less: it's basically a raft attached to a chain across the river) you cross and then it's about a mile drive to the site.

We were impressed. Really impressed. Not the oldest thing you'll ever see: about 900 - 1000 ad, but this is a big site, with lots to see.

Of course it was a warm day (up in the high 30s C) so we had to take it fairly slow. And that meant climbing up to the top of "el castillo" - the "castle" or biggest building - was definitely a bit wearing. But well worth it. Definitely somewhere to add to the "must see" list when you visit Belize.

The castillo has two large friezes on the W and E sides. No idea what they mean - but I'm not sure anyone else is really sure either. You don't actually see the original: it's been reburied in the monument, and they've made a fibreglass facsimile and mounted it on the outside, basically half a metre in front of the original. But it looked good to me - and protects the original from people with chisels who want a souvenir to take home.

And the site was beautifully kept: grass mown, leaves swept, paths cleared. And this being Belize, hardly anyone else there - I think two small groups plus us while we were there.


Enjoy the photies.